Master Bathroom Water Development

I finally decided what I wanted to do with the walls of the water closet (toilet room) in our master bathroom! I could never have had simple white walls there, and the tile was out of the question, so I wanted to come up with a different idea.

A few days ago, I mentioned the possibility of making a wooden slat wall (as long as we don’t call it “shiplap” 😀), but most of you don’t like that idea. But many of you have other ideas, and as I pondered those ideas, they led me to my final decision.

So let me back up a bit and explain that the walls in the main part of the bathroom are finished with Modern Masters Venetian Plaster on the top (which is already done), and then the lower part of the walls will be white wainscoting like. I’m in the bathroom hallway …

I thought of using a simple picture frame molding for wainscoting, like I had in the music room, but in the end I decided that this style of wainscoting (which I believe is called judge’s paneling) was my favorite. So naturally, it had to go to our master bathroom.

However, many of you have suggested that I just bring the walls of the main bathroom area inside this water closet, but that’s out of the question. There is no way I have a white shower to the left of the mural wall, and then a place with a teal high wall and white low wall to the right of the mural wall. That kind of asymmetry sends me over the edge. At the very least, I need color symmetry, meaning that the shower and the water closet, at the very least, should be the same color. So that means the water closet should be white.

But the idea of ​​having simple white walls is not good for me. I would be tempted to hang the artwork on a white wall, and then my color symmetry, and attract attention from the mural. But I LOVE the idea of ​​bringing wainscoting into the water closet.

I thought through a few different options, and I liked the idea of ​​making the bottom walls in exactly the same way as the main part of the room (like the hallway bathroom), and then adding the same wall treatment over the seat rail as well. , and painted it white.

The problem with that idea is that I still plan to include penny glass tile in the wainscoting in the main part of the room, and I DON’T want to add the water closet tile. I can’t come up with a way to have the same low wall design in both areas, but have a main area with tile glass, and a water closet without tile glass, and make that tan. intentional and planned. I think I seem to have run out of tiles and need to do so.

So in the end, I decided to do the judge paneling on the water closet, but take it the entire length of the wall. And then the whole thing is painted and white. Obviously, this addition is not completely symmetrical in the shower, but really, there is no way to achieve perfect symmetry in the shower unless I am willing to tile the walls of the water closet. And not me. But as long as both areas are white it’s okay with me.

I did so much in this little place yesterday. I started by adding baseboards to the floor (using 1 ″ x 5 ″ pre-primed board), and then added a few horizontal pieces around the top of the ceiling walls. For those, I used 1 ″ x 6 ″ pieces. And then I added the vertical pieces, which are 1 ″ x 4 ″ boards.

At this point, it will look pretty simple, and have a farmhouse board and look at its batten. And if you like that full length farmhouse board and batten look, here’s where you stop. You fill in the nail holes with wood filler, cover the areas where the boards meet the wall and ceiling, and paint.

But of course, the farmhouse board and batten look isn’t quite what I expected here, so I still have a little trim to add to get it from farmhouse to traditional, which is more in my style.

But hopefully you can figure out how to coordinate the two with each other. If you can, try to imagine the bathroom style of the hallway by wainscoting under the tall blue walls, with the penny glass tile attached to the wainscoting, and then the same style of paneling laid out the entire length. -on in the water cupboard.

It’s a much smaller area than the shower, so it’s hard to take a good photo of the wall hidden behind the mural wall (mural wall coating). This is the wall where the toilet will actually go, and this wall will not be divided into three sections like the other two walls.

I bought a space saver, hugged the toilet wall to get in here so the toilet didn’t come out of the short wall (the mural wall), and if I divided that wall into three equal sections, that would put a in the vertical. pieces in the back of the toilet. And I don’t have 3/4-inches left behind on the toilet. Also, I have a plan for this wall because it is hidden, and whatever I do there will not interfere with the mural. So on that wall, I cut it as a large rectangle rather than three.

However, I installed all the main boards, did a little caulking around the ceiling, and then filled in all the nail holes and joints with wood filler.

I like to do the wood filling and sanding at this stage, rather than waiting until the remaining trim is installed, so that it can be sanded with a rotary sander. If I first install the remaining trim, and then do the sanding, everything has to be done by hand because the remaining trim comes out a bit on these boards, and it’s impossible to use a rotary sander afterwards. niana. The trim is installed and it will not be damaged by the sander. I know that from experience. ⁇

So it still doesn’t look pretty. I left it at this ugly stage, which I always call the “chicken pox stage” in my mind. It always reminds me of someone with chicken pox with calamine lotion on every little itchy bump. ⁇

I’m just happy to finally make a decision I’m happy with – a decision that allows me to keep the room white while adding interest to the walls in a way that keeps me from hanging artwork on the wall. to appear from the main part of the room. And if you can’t imagine it yet, I need to have a lot of progress to share with you on Friday.

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