My Finished Hallway Flooring (Color Matching New Hardwood Flooring to Fit the Original Floor)


As you know, my attempt last week to finish the hardwood floors in the hallways was a horrible failure. It never occurred to me that the hardwood floor in my house might have changed color slightly over the years, so instead of matching the color of the new floor to the old floor, I just plowed through the project. using the exact same process, products, and color I used when I repaired the floor a few years ago. This resulted in disaster.

If you want to read more about my tenacity and determination to keep going even when my eyes see that things don’t work out with each new step, you can read here…

Hallway Flooring Improvements (And Disasters)

So last weekend, I had to fix a terrible mess. It takes hours of sanding (more than a minute) and some careful color matching, but this time it’s worth it. Here is the floor to look at this morning

fixing hallway hardwood floor - test numbers 2 - 10

Isn’t that too much for you ?! It’s not perfect (it’s never perfect to have a new finish after a year after), but I’m very happy with the results.

(Note: If you read this post on any website other than Addict 2 Decorating, that means you are reading a site that stole my blog content. I ask that you consider joining me on my real blog by clicking here.)

That’s how I did this project for the second time…

Obviously, I had to get the terrible finish off the floor. I pulled out my five-inch rotary sander, and using some 60-grit sanding discs, I started to work out the finish on the walls. I intend to use the rotary sander on the edges, and then use my hand to hold the belt sander in the main areas of the floor.

But as I stepped aside, I realized how the floor was tearing. There were scratches on all of it even when I chose the belt sander up to 120-grit last time. The real reason is that I’m not good at using a belt sander. It’s so strong, and I have a hard time controlling it, and that’s the way I get all the scratches everywhere.

Not wanting to make any mistakes all this time, I decided to leave the belt sander on and cut the entire floor with my five inch disc sander. That way I can concentrate on getting all the scratches off the floor and end up with a smoother floor this hour. It takes forever (six consecutive hours of sanding), but it’s worth it!

I also blasted a little bit of the new floor. There is an original floor board just inside the music room that is naturally darker than the others. I thought it could make a good transition board. Because it is naturally darker, it is less noticeable if the color meeting on the board on the side of the hallway is slightly colored. So I took the finish all the way to that board using a hand scraper.

repair of hallway wooden floor - test number 2 - 1

This walk, I actually took the time to make some stain samples. A novel idea, isn’t it? 😀

From left to right, these four samples (all using Minwax penetrating stain) are: (1) 50% Honey and 50% Special Walnut, (2) 20% Honey and 80% Special Walnut, ( 3) 100% Honey, (4) 100% Special Walnut.

repair of hallway wooden floor - test number 2 - 2

At first, I thought honey was the winner, but when I looked further, I saw that it was a bit redder than the original floor. So I ended up going with 50% honey and 50% special walnut blend. Here’s how that looks on the floor…

fixing hallway hardwood floor - test number 2 - 3

It still looks a bit redder than the original floor, but I figured I could make any final color corrections to the stain color I mixed with the first coat of polyurethane.

fixing hallway hardwood floor - test numbers 2 - 5

Since I had to cut the red, I decided to try my original polyurethane mix (polyurethane and stain mixed 8: 1, using a stain mixture of 50% black walnut and 50% special walnut). After testing that on the sample board, it will look like the perfect combo

I applied the first coat of polyurethane / stain mix with a regular paint brush so I could completely control how dark it looked. I prefer to do a thin coat and it is very light and should follow the second coat rather than the thicker and darker the first coat.

A coat as appropriate. Wait, I forgot to take a photo of what it looks like after the first coat of polyurethane / stain mixture. But how did it look after I put on the second coat of plain polyurethane. Naturally, it’s very shiny when it’s wet, and I just hoped and prayed that the satin polyurethane finish was a little closer to the original floor when it was dry.

repair of hallway wooden floor - test numbers 2 - 6
fixing hallway hardwood floor - test numbers 2 - 7

So I was so surprised (no, that’s a scratch, I’m ECSTATIC) when I woke up this morning and it was like this…

fixing hallway hardwood floor - test numbers 2 - 8

There is a slight variation in the brightness, but I think the brightness will fade faster, so I don’t worry about it.

fixing hallway hardwood floor - test numbers 2 - 10

I was so relieved that it was over! Now it only needs to be treated for a while (72 hours, I think) before it can control a lot of traffic. So I entertain myself with other projects around the house, and then I come back here and finish the hallway. I had to install a door, put trim (door casing, baseboards, and crown), lead and paint the walls, and touch up the paint on the cabinets.

This hallway has been in this unfinished state for over a year, so I’m glad to have a beautiful hallway again, especially now that the guest room is finished.

If you want more details on how I finished the floor, you can find any details in my original posts I wrote as I studied all the floors a few years ago . You can find these here:

Part 1: Repairing My Hardwood Floors-Sanding Improvements

Part 2: Adventures of Dyeing My Red Hardwood (Products and Processes)

Part 3: The Hardwood Floor Refinishing Adventure Continues – Tips For Getting A Beautiful Finish

Part 4: My Newly Finished Red Hardwood Floors





Source link

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *