* This post contains links.
My cute little settee for the music room arrived a few days ago, so I took a little time to finish this area of the room and be done. Well, it’s done for most. The pillows you see in the settee probably won’t stay there. Look. Look. Heck, I don’t know.
However, about the completion of this area included a change in the side table. This is how my little side table turned out…
If you’ve been here for a while, you might recognize that table. I got a pair of tables for free from Overstock after we moved into this house. These are original metal and glass tables like this…
I ended up painting the metal of the tables with gold spray paint, and I used it in the living room for a while. After the original kitchen renovation, I did a little experiment with the painted glass on the tables (because I consider the painted glass as a backsplash in the kitchen), and after that I no longer use the tables. . They were already sitting in the sunroom (i.e., my inner closet).
So when I pulled them to consider using them in the music room, they seemed awesome.
But I was determined that I would fix them and use them internally.
I considered just rubbing the paint on the glass and giving the metal a new coat of gold spray paint, but I didn’t know. There was something about the little glam velvet settee next to the gold tables and glasses on the side that was as small as I could guess. I want some wood to keep things warm. I also don’t want the tables to have three faces. That sounds like I’m too busy.
So I took the middle shelf and made a wooden frame on top of the table to bring the heat to this side of the room, while continuing to place the stained glass to make it look bright and airy.
So let me show you how I did it!
I started removing all three glasses, which were just sitting inside the metal frames.
And after removing the middle shelf, I used a hex wrench to remove the screws and washer locks.
It would look much better on me without the middle shelf…
But I was left with these little brackets soldered to the legs.
So I took the table out, along with my hammer, and beat the brackets until the soldered joint was gone.
Each removed bracket leaves a small hole in the metal legs like this…
So I got out of my Bondo and mixed the small batch…
And that is used to fill in the holes.
A quick tip for using Bondo – keep in mind that it dries quickly. If you are new to using Bondo, I would suggest mixing several small batches as you go rather than one large batch for the entire project at a time.
While the Bondo was drying, I used my table saw to cut two pieces of MDF for the tall wood. I wanted the height to be an inch thick, so I targeted two pieces of 1/2-inch MDF for each table height. Then I used a very large amount of wood glue on the first piece …
… And after laying and lining the second piece on top, it is pressed firmly in place. Afterwards I set it aside to let it dry.
Once the table tops have been cut and glued, dry the Bondo. I used my rotary sander with 150-grit sandpaper to release the Bondo smoothly, and then gave the table two or three coats of Rust-Oleum Pure Gold spray paint.
When the table was dry, I tested the MDF interior trim to fit.
It was a perfect fit, so I was ready to cover the MDF with wood veneer. I use this leather and stick stick walnut wood veneer with PSA support which makes the work the fastest and quickest. If working with wood veneer, I recommend always removing PSA support if it applies to the wood species and size you need for your project. It is much quicker and quicker than rolling contact cement.
I started with the front and back edges, and for the seams I used pieces with the grains going up and down.
I simply peeled off the back, glued the veneer to the edge, and then cut off the excess. using this veneer trimmer.
There are many cheaper veneer trimmers available, but that is one, by far, the best I have used. If you’ve already seen yourself doing a lot of wood veneer projects, I recommend mixing that well.
After repeating that process on the back edge, I moved to the side edges. For these edges, I cut pieces of veneer with grains from side to side…
And I repeated the same process – peel the backing, press the veneer into place, and cut the veneer trimmer.
Afterwards I was ready for the last piece, which was tall. For this piece, I made sure that the direction of the grain was going in the same direction as the high side of the side. And then I peeled, glued, and trimmed.
You may not see it in the photos, but after the wood veneer is cut, it has edged edges that are quite rough.
So I carefully removed the edges and edges of the 150-grit paper, and followed with 220-grit to make things very smooth. Hopefully you can see in the photo below how to smooth the edges to soften the look of the edges.
And finally, the tall is ready for a clear coat. I use my absolute favorite – Overall High Performance Topcoat Finish with a flat finish.
I just brushed the first coat with a regular paint brush, dried it, and then wrapped the whole thing with 220-grit paper. Afterwards I made a second coat, and when that was completely dry, it was done. I glued it to the top of the table with a small dot of Gorilla gel super glue.
For the bottom piece of glass, I simply used a straight scraper razor blade to remove the paint and give it a final cleaning with some glass cleaner.
It’s so much better for me. I love the warmth added by the walnut wood on the table and on this side of the room. I like the look of the white lights sitting on the wood so much more than sitting on the shiny glass, whether painted or clear.
So that was a fun and quick project that took me one step closer to finishing a finished music room. As far as I know, the only things left in this episode is to do some touchups of paint on the walls, and then figure out what I want to use as a piano bench. It’s almost over !!